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Amber
is fossilised tree sap formed millions of years ago and discovered
along the Baltic Sea by Stone Age people. Because it is an organic
gem -- one formed from living organisms -- amber can contain suspended
fragments of animals or plants, making it a true time capsule!
Most of us think of a lustrous reddish golden hue when we think
of amber, but it comes in shades ranging from whites and yellows
to reds and browns; its former prevalence along the Baltic coast
of Germany, Poland and Russia earned it the name "gold of the
North." Today's major source of amber is the Dominican Republic.
 
Amethyst is a variety of quartz, is an
abundant gem that comes in a range of shades from pale lilac to
deep purple. Because it is so plentiful, amethyst is also affordable;
still, its rich, lush purple -- the colour of royalty -- has long
made it a prized gem in coronation regalia, from the ancient Greeks
and Romans to British royal families. South America, particularly
Brazil, is today's major source of amethyst.
 
Aquamarine whose
name comes from the Latin for "sea water," is a member of the
beryl family. Aquamarine crystals usually have excellent clarity,
can grow to very large sizes and range in colour from greenish
blue to light blue-green. Most aquamarine is heat-treated to remove
traces of yellow and intensify its rich blue colour. Brazil
is today's major source of aquamarine.
 
The Blue Topaz is a magnificent gem to include in any collection.
Before the 1950s, topaz was more commonly associated with a yellow
or golden gemstone, but with improved treatment processes, the
blue topaz has become one of the most popular and widely used
of all gemstones! Part of its popularity comes from it's affordability,
especially when compared to the cost of other blue gems like the
aquamarine and the sapphire. Another wonderful quality about the
blue topaz is the impressive range of brilliant blues it comes
in. The lightest blue topaz gems are often referred to as Sky
blue topaz, the more pastel gemstones may be called Swiss blue
topaz while the most intense, darkest gems are commonly named
London blue topaz. This plentiful gem is currently found throughout
the world including Brazil, Sri Lanka, Mexico and the United States.
 
Chalcedony is an opaque bluish-white gemstone
that is actually a member of the largest family of minerals on
earth -- the quartz family. Chalcedony, known scientifically as
microcrystalline or cryptocrystalline, is a variety of quartz
made up of finely grained microcrystals too small to be seen by
the naked eye. There are hundreds of different chalcedony varieties
that come in an amazing range of colours and patterns. In the
gem trade, the name chalcedony describes only white or lightly
coloured gemstones with a waxy lustre. Collectors and gem dealers
call all other varieties of chalcedony by their particular name.
Some of the more popular varieties include agate, bloodstone (or
heliotrope), carnelian, chrysoprase, jasper, moss agate, onyx,
plasma, sard and sardonyx. Because of its abundance, durability
and beauty, chalcedony was one of the earliest raw materials used
by humans in both practical and ornamental forms. World-wide,
there are literally thousands of localities where fine specimens
of chalcedony have been found. Just a few of these places include
Uruguay, Brazil, south-western Africa, and the Lake Superior area
in the United States and Canada.
 
Citrine is a variety of quartz, is popular
for its warm yellow to orange colours and its affordable pricing.
Another one of citrine's assets is its wide range of sizes --
citrines in 20-carat sizes are not uncommon! Citrine's versatility
and wearability make it a popular choice for jewellery, either
used alone or combined with diamonds or other gems. Before the
development of modern mineralogy, at a time when gems were identified
by colour, citrine was often mistaken for the similarly coloured
topaz. Its name derives from the Latin word citrus, meaning "citron."
Almost all citrine is heat-treated to enhance its colour. Today's
sources of citrine are Bolivia, Brazil and Spain.
 
This is the most famous member of the beryl
family, is prized for its lush green colour Known as one of the
"Big Three" along with sapphire and ruby, emerald's name derives
from smaragdus, the ancient Greek word for "green." Most emeralds
have natural birthmarks (fissures or inclusions); because of this,
they are routinely treated by a process called "oiling," which
means filling fractures that reach the surface with colourless
oils or resins to improve an emerald's clarity and colour. Colombia
is one of the world's largest commercial producers of emeralds;
Colombian emeralds are highly valued for their excellent colour.
Other sources include Zambia, Zimbabwe, Afghanistan, Pakistan,
Brazil and Russia.
 
Garnet is actually the group name of a gemstone. Named granatus
or "seed," by the Romans because of the stones' resemblance to
pomegranate seeds, garnets come in a wide range of colours, except
blue. Pyrope, from the Greek word pyropos ("fiery-eyed"), ranges
from medium to dark reddish orange to purplish red; the most prized
pyrope colour is a glowing red. Popular with the Greeks, Romans
and the Victorians, pyrope is now in short supply. Tsavorite garnet
comes in shades of green; rhodolite garnet ranges in colour from
pink to reddish purple. Modern sources of garnet are the United
States and South Africa.
 
Jade may be either
jadeite or nephrite, both gem minerals that are correctly referred
to as jade. The Mayans and Aztecs used jadeite for ornamentation
and for medicine; Spanish explorers called the stone piedra de
ijada -- "stone of the pain in the side" -- after seeing natives
holding it to their sides to counteract aches. From ijada came
the word "jade."
Jadeite
comes in a wide range of colours, from greens and yellows to black
and lavender, and is usually streaked or mottled. The finest quality
jadeite is the vibrant emerald-green variety known as Imperial
jade, named for the royal court of China that once cornered the
market on this precious gem.
Nephrite's
colours range from greens to yellow, brown, black, grey and white;
the stone can be translucent or opaque, is usually mottled or
streaked, and is very affordable and wearable. Nephrite's colours
are generally more muted that jadeite's.
Because
jade is exceptionally tough, it has long been prized by lapidary
artists. It's one of very few gems that can be carved into rings
and bracelets from a single stone, without supporting mountings
or metalwork. In the Stone Age, Chinese workers fashioned nephrite
into tools and weapons. Jade carving is still a national art form
in China.
To
improve its colour and appearance, jade is often treated by dyeing,
waxing or bleaching. Jade sources include China, New Zealand,
Russia, the United States, Canada and Taiwan.

Onyx is a variety of chalcedony, is characterised
by straight, parallel bands which are usually black and white.
This sturdy stone has long been popular with gem carvers for creating
cameos as well as beads and cabochons. Modern sources of onyx
are Brazil, Uruguay, the United States and Madagascar.
 
Opal is described as a "phenomenal" gem
-- one whose colour defies simple description because of its many
hues and special effects. Opals are divided into three main categories:
white, which have white or light grey backgrounds; black, with
black or dark backgrounds; and fire, which have red, orange, yellow
or brown bodycolors and often don't show the "play-of-colour"
typical of other opals. That flashing play-of-colour is a result
of opal's internal structure: stacks of sub-microscopic spheres
assemble in grid-like patterns, which cause light to bend and
break into the colours of the spectrum. Opals may be treated by
several methods, including oil or wax, to improve play-of-colour.
Australia is a major source for black and white opal -- the gem
is the country's national gemstone; Brazil (for white opal) and
Mexico (for fire opal) are other producers.
 
Peridot is a stone prized for its cheerful
green shades, was called "gem of the sun" by the Egyptians. Its
plentiful supply and reasonable cost make peridot a popular gem,
and its beautiful colour makes it an exciting contrast when used
with other vibrant stones like citrine and pink tourmaline. Available
in a range of colours from brownish or yellowish green to greenish
yellow, peridot is mined in Myanmar (formerly Burma), Pakistan
and the United States. Peridot's name derives from the Arabic
word faridat, meaning "gem."
 
Rose quartz is a budget-wise stone that
ranges in colour from very light pink to medium-dark pink. Because
rose quartz often has myriad internal fractures, the stone may
have a translucent, cloudy quality or appear delicately veined,
like jadeite. A durable stone, rose quartz is lovely when it's
fashioned into bead bracelets and necklaces. Brazil and India
are among the sources of rose quartz.
 
Ruby along with sapphire and emerald, one
of the "Big Three" -- is a variety of corundum, the same species
as sapphire. Its very name comes from the Latin word ruber, meaning
"red." Available in a wide range of reds, rubies are especially
prized in the vivid red "pigeon's blood" colour. Myanmar (formerly
Burma) is considered to produce the finest rubies, but large,
extremely fine rubies are rare and prohibitively costly. Fortunately
for consumers, there are ample treatments and sources -- including
Afghanistan, Kenya, Sri Lanka and Vietnam -- to make rubies affordable
for most people. Many rubies are heat-treated or cavity-filled
with epoxy resin or glass to improve colour and/or clarity; such
treatments are detectable only to a trained gemologist.
 
Sapphire along with ruby and emerald, one
of the "Big Three" -- is a variety of corundum, the same species
as ruby. In fact, if a corundum doesn't qualify as ruby, it's
considered sapphire. Although most people think of sapphire as
blue, it can actually come in colours from violets and greens
to oranges and yellows to pinks and purples. These "fancy" sapphires
include amethystine or plum (purple), golden, white or colourless,
and the vivid padparadscha, which is pinkish orange to orange-pink.
The latter term comes from padmaragaya, the Sinhalese term for
"lotus colour" Heat-treatment to improve colour and/or clarity
is common for blue sapphires. Sapphires can also be partlyi-coloured,
displaying a combination of colours
The
sapphire's place as a favourite gem of royals was reinforced in
1981, when Britain's Prince Charles presented Lady Diana with
an exquisite blue sapphire engagement ring. Historically, India
and Pakistan were the sources of fine blue sapphire; today, production
is limited. A number of countries world-wide are the modern sources
of sapphire, including Australia, China, several African countries
and the United States.
 
This is a durable stone that ranges in
colour from light to dark brown, is an abundant and reasonably
priced choice for a wide variety of jewellery Smokey quartz may
be heated to lighten its colour, or irradiated to deepen its colour.
Once found in the Cairngorm Mountains in the Scottish Highlands,
smokey quartz is a traditional gem there, where it's still known
as Cairngorm. Modern sources for smokey quartz include Brazil,
Switzerland and the United States.
 
Tanzanite is named after Tanzania, the
east African country where the gem was discovered in 1962. Heat-treating
the gem produces a range of colours, from light to dark shades
of violet blue to pure blue. Tanzanite also possesses a quality
called pleochroism, which means that it will show different colours
when viewed from different directions; with tanzanite, the colour
spectrum will be shades of purple and blue. To date, Tanzania
is the only source of this gem.
 
Topaz comes in a wide range of colours,
from colourless to blues, reds and purples, including the shades
of brown that many consumers recognise. Topaz is usually named
for its colour, such as blue topaz or pink topaz. Special trade
names include imperial topaz, an expensive variety in shades of
medium reddish orange to orange-red, and sherry topaz, with its
yellowish brown or brownish yellow to orange shades. Consumers
sometimes confuse citrine or smoky quartz with topaz; the name
itself probably comes from the old Greek name Topazios (now Zabargad),
a Red Sea island which once produced peridot, which was mistaken
for topaz. Topaz varieties can come in very generous carat sizes
-- the Smithsonian Institution houses the "American Golden," a
light yellow topaz that's a whopping 22,982 carats! Common treatments
for topaz are heat, which can change some yellow or brown gems
to pink, and irradiation and heat, which produces most medium-
to dark-blue topaz. Modern sources of topaz include Australia,
Brazil, Mexico and the United States.
 
Tourmaline comes in such a wide range of
colours that it's truly one of nature's most versatile gems. Before
the development of modern mineralogy, at a time when gems were
identified by colour, tourmaline was often mistaken for another
gem such as emerald or ruby. The name tourmaline itself comes
from the Sinhalese word toramalli, meaning "mixed gems." Tourmaline
exists in a range of shades within its many colours. Tourmaline
varieties include Rubellite, in pink to red shades; Indicolite,
in dark violet blues to blue and greenish blue; Paraíba tourmaline,
named for the state of Paraíba, Brazil, in intense shades of violet-blue
to greenish blue and blue; the intensely green chrome tourmaline;
partli-coloured tourmaline, with its combination of colours, the
most common of which is green and pink; and watermelon tourmaline,
which displays a pink centre rimmed by green. Tourmaline's colour
is often enhanced through heat or irradiation. Today's major source
of tourmaline is Brazil.
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People have always been attracted to gems.
The popularity of certain gems varies according to style and fashion
and the assignment of specific gems as birthstones dates from
ancient times. See our comprehensive
guide for more information.


Do not assume the darker the colour the
better. It can be too dark. Some sapphires can appear more black
than blue.

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